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Wednesday
Jan042012

Happy New Year!

We had a great holiday with Ruth and Dave.  They arrived December 23 on a chilly and rainy afternoon in Istanbul.  Good weather to sleep off some of their jet lag.  Fortunately the rain cleared the following day and although it was quite chilly, it really didnt bother any of us.  Istanbul the second time around for us started to feel familiar, and Aethan loved standing in as the 'tour guide' ("next you'll find the gift shop...this is where you stand in line...this is where you can get some baklava...").  It might have been short on history, but he at least knew his way around!  

We went to Troy and Ephesus, then finally to Pamukkale - which was a new sight for us.  Pammukale translates to 'Cotton Castle'.  It is a mountain made of calcium-salt travertines.  Mineral deposits from underground hot springs created shelf-like pools with water which varied from clear to opaque aquamarine blue (from the minerals).  The hill looks like a ski hill, but the water is actually warm and removing your footware is required to walk on it.  The water at the top starts off at about 35C (about 90F) and cools as it trickles down the moutain.   Ruth, David, and Aethan walked the trail up (maybe 1/4 mile?); Code and I took Graeme in the car and met them at the top.   By the time they caught up with us, Graeme and I were wading in the travertine pools and a park ranger was insistently blowing his whistle for us to get out (honestly, we didnt see any signs not to walk there; it is really hit or miss where you're allowed to walk!).

A better place to swim than the travertines was in the 'Antique Pool'.  Southern Turkey is a little like Philadelphia in that there are places where historical figures are reputed to have eaten, slept, and so forth.  In my book, 'Cleopatra swam here' trumps 'George Washington slept here', and swimming in Cleopatras pool is just what we did. Now one of the things about Turkey and its ruins that I love is that they are more 'hands on' than we experienced in Rome.  Here was an ancient pool with submerged columns and other artifacts that was more or less in the same configuration as when Cleopatra swam in it.  It is said that she swam in Pamukkale's hot springs because the rich mineral content (fortunately it did not contain sulfur) would renew her beauty.  I dont know how long she swam, but I was in there for 2 hours!   

We left Pamukkale and returned to our home in Marmaris.  It is amazing how much the boat and the marina feels like our home.  Ruth and Dave did a day trip to Rhodes while we caught up on laundry, emails, and other errands that being home after a trip entails.  I was so glad that they decided to make a side trip to Greece, and even for being just 20 miles away, it really does feel different than Turkey...you can start just with the alphabets!  

The weather was relunctantly cooperative.  It was cold in Istanbul, as we expected, but the sun did make its way out.  Once we got south of Troy, the sun came out and things gradually warmed as we headed past the citrus trees of southern turkey (with the ubiquitous roadside stands selling citrus by the truckload).  Ephesus and Pamukkale were beautiful. While it poured here in Marmaris, it was sunny for them in Rhodes.  Ruth and I managed to have beautiful weather for one run (but we go rained out on another day).  I was thrilled when Ruth said that every day is filled with new adventure.  I felt like she was really having a great time, and that was so important to me.

Finally, their last day we wheeled and dealed at the local bazaar which was followed by a New Years Party at the marina.  Lets just say I would not rule out signing up for belly dancing lessons.  Graeme pooped out by 10:00, but Aethan danced his heart out until midnight. Ruth and Dave were cutting the rug with a few new friends, and  I gushed watching Aethan on the dancefloor (and gushed dancing with him).  He is at the exact cross roads of man and boy, and I am lucky enough to share it.  I will never forget how he radiated pure fun and joy that night.  'Mom', he said, 'THIS is the best New Year's ever!!'.  I had to agree.

Ruth and Dave are back home now, and we're planning our next activities (travelling to Sophia, Budapest, Vienna, and Salzburg with a couple weeks of skiing mixed in).  That should take us to mid-February, when we come back and do our last pieces of maintenance before our end of March departure.  It feels weird to think of picking up and leaving Marmaris, especially for me since I put down roots fast.  I cant imagine saying goodbye to some of the good friends that we have made here, and even the loss of those peripheral friends and acquaintences who complete the picture will certainly feel like a loss. It is too early to focus on that now.  

Now, we have packing to do and still have travel to plan.  

 

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